Straightening
What action does straightening have on the hair fiber?
The golden rules of hair straightening
Recommended application time according to hair type
What action does straightening have on the hair fiber ?
Straightening is a practice aimed at facilitating hair styling by permanently deforming the keratin chain.
The disulfide bridges are broken by chemical action (lanthionization) and then flattened by smoothing with the back of the comb to give them a stiff shape.
15 to 20 minutes later, the neutralization fixes the shape and restores the PH.
The golden rules of hair straightening
The straightening is intended exclusively for naturally curly and frizzy hair, not colored, not bleached and not permed
The wick test
This mandatory test allows you to check the resistance of your hair and to determine your ideal straightening time.
Always do a strand test before straightening the whole hair, even if you are used to straightening.
Test on the regrowth if the hair has already been straightened.
- Put on the gloves provided.
- Isolate a small strand of hair.
- Mix one plastic teaspoon of Soda-Free Relaxing Cream with 6 times less (1/6 teaspoon) of Activating Cream.
- Apply the relaxer mixture to the isolated strand.
- Leave on for 8 minutes (corresponds to the average application time of a complete straightener).
- After 8 minutes: smooth, then leave for the additional straightening time (see the selective time table).
- Rinse the strand thoroughly without wetting the rest of the hair.
- Apply a small amount of Cuticle Regulator, leave on for 5 minutes and rinse.
- Apply a small amount of Neutralizing Shampoo, lather and rinse.
Wring out and examine the wick:
=> If it breaks easily, DO NOT DEFRISER the hair.
=> If there is irritation or burns, DO NOT DEFRISER the hair.
=> If the hair is not relaxed enough, increase the complementary time of the straightening without ever exceeding the time
maximum application time indicated for your hair texture.
=> If it is straightened, proceed with the whole straightening with the same timing.
Laying time
Straightening procedure
Reminder: In case of contact with eyes, wash immediately with plenty of water (at least 10 minutes)
and consult a specialist
If skin or scalp irritation occurs during straightening, rinse immediately with water and apply Regulator
Cuticular and Neutralizing Shampoo. Repeat the shampoo until the foam is white. Rinse off.
Step 1. The mixing
- Put on the gloves and mix the Soda-Free Relaxing Cream with the Activating Cream(2) with the spatula for at least 2 minutes, until the cream is smooth and homogeneous.
- Do not store the remaining mixed product.
Step 2. Preparation of the hair
Gently detangle hair with a wide-tooth comb.
Divide hair into four equal sections, parting from the center of the forehead to the nape of the neck and parting from ear to ear. Use clips to keep the sections separated.
Apply Vaseline around the forehead, ears and back of the neck.
Step 3. The application
Set the timer to the exposure time determined by the wick test.
Apply the straightening cream line by line with the back of a tail comb or a brush, avoiding touching the scalp.
Start at the nape of the neck, working your way up to the top of the skull, then from the ears to the top and ending at the forehead.
The application must be done quickly because the time spent on it is deducted from the total time of the straightening.
- Non-straightened hair: apply the cream in the direction of roots -> lengths -> tips.
- Previously relaxed hair: apply only to the regrowth avoiding the already relaxed parts.
Step 4. The smoothing
Be careful! Smoothing is not kneading or pulling on the hair.
The smoothing is done in two steps
- Smooth by gently massaging with gloved fingers from length to tip.
- Then with the back of the comb for the roots.
In all cases, do not exceed the straightening time determined by the wick test.
- Non-straightened hair: smooth the entire length of the hair, from the roots to the tips.
- Previously relaxed hair: smooth only the regrowth. Extend to the lengths just before rinsing.
Step 5. Rinsing
Rinse hair thoroughly with warm water to remove all traces of cream, including the back of the neck and ears.
Ensure that the rinsing water does not get into the eyes. In case of contact with eyes, wash immediately with plenty of water.
Step 6. The regulation
Apply the Cuticular Regulator generously to the whole hair and scalp.
Gently massage the scalp and hair.
Leave on for 5 minutes, then rinse thoroughly.
The Cuticle Regulator immediately stops the action of the relaxer. Restructuring, it compensates for porous areas and prepares the hair for neutralization.
Step 7. The neutralization
On wet hair, apply the Neutralizing Shampoo and lather by massaging the scalp and hair. As long as the shampoo foam is pink, neutralization is not achieved.
Repeat until the shampoo foam turns white. Rinse off.
Recommended step: The treatment
Deep conditioning after straightening helps to revitalize and strengthen the hair.
Choose a nourishing treatment such as the Actiliss Smoothing Prolonging Mask and the Actirepair Repair Mask
Remember to use a treatment once a week to nourish your hair in depth and prolong your straightening.
Recommended daily maintenance:
Remember to moisturize and/or nourish your hair daily by using a cream or a styling milk (Actigloss Hair Milk, Actirepair Repairing Styling Milk) or a serum (Actiliss Thermo-protective Serum...).
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